17/03/2022 By acomputer 770 Views

30 (great) ideas for your next hikes in France

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52 km - 2-3 days - Fontainebleau-Avon station / Maisse station. Hiking in the forest of Fontainebleau? Nothing original. But a complete crossing of the massif from east to west, accumulating more than 1,000 m of altitude difference, that is already a little more out of the ordinary! For Clément Lhommeau, from the Helloways site, who drew this "Trans'bleausarde", there is even something to be surprised about: "The path passes through all the most beautiful corners of the forest." Small sample: the Denecourt tower, the gorges of Apremont, Barbizon, ridge paths, others that thread their way between the sandstone blocks... In the sandy massif of Trois Pignons, the path partly follows that of the " 25 bumps", historic circuit designed to survey the elevation gain without leaving Île-de-France. There are lodges, hotels and campsites on the route (wild camping is prohibited). ➤ OUR ADVICE: take a detour via Milly to take a look at the Cyclop, a monumental sculpture built between 1969 and 1994 (restricted hours, inquire).

3/ THE GRAND TOUR OF BORDEAUX

160 km - 10 days - Loop from Bordeaux. Walk 160 km... without going (too) far from the city? This is possible in the Gironde metropolis, which in 2019 equipped itself with a GR (in fact, the old Green Loop brought up to date) crossing 17 municipalities. On the left bank of the Garonne, it embarks on a vast tour on the outskirts of the urban area (Blanquefort, Saint-Médard-en-Jalles, Pessac, Gradignan) linking together parks and natural spaces. We will also come across some vineyards and wine chateaux along the way. On the more rugged right bank, the GR runs along the hillsides from Bouliac to Bassens, again from park to park, with beautiful views of Bordeaux. The official start is at the Chaban-Delmas bridge. But the trail is very accessible by public transport, and can therefore easily be walked in sections. ➤ OUR ADVICE: 11 "peri-urban shelters" have been set up. These huts, without water or electricity but with dry toilets, are free (upon reservation).

⋙ An urban hiking trail for walking around Bordeaux and its surroundings

4/ DRIVEN BY NANTAISE SEVRE

46 km - 2 days - Boussay-La Bruffière / Nantes station. Forget the ocean! This weekend getaway takes place in fresh water, along the banks of the Sèvre Nantaise, a tributary of the Loire. The idea is to be dropped off by train at Boussay (30 min south-east of Nantes), to walk back to the city of the Dukes. For this, we follow part of the GR de Pays Sèvre et Maine, walking under the foliage that borders this pretty stream, through the Muscadet vineyard. We will cross some pretty villages and the city of Clisson, known for its medieval castle, its hard-rock festival Hellfest and its air of "little Tuscany" (it was rebuilt in the 18th century with Italian inspiration). "Between historical remains (mills, castles, factories), winding even chaotic paths and the always fresh air of the river, this micro-adventure along the water takes you into Nantes through the great door, that of nature. “, sums up Clément Lhommeau, from the Helloways site. ➤ OUR ADVICE: on sunny days, don't forget your bathing suit: many places are ideal for swimming. And why not finish the hike by canoe or paddle, from Clisson?

5/ NOSE TO THE WIND ON THE OPAL COAST

50 km - 2-3 days - Boulogne-sur-Mer / Calais. A trip to the Opal Coast: this is the perfect option for a weekend full of sea air, with a view of England as a bonus (on a clear day...). Leaving from Boulogne-sur-Mer, both a fishing port and a fortified town, the idea is to go up due north, along the coast, through beaches, dunes and marshes, to Cap Gris-Nez, the point of French coast closest to Great Britain. A dozen km further on, Cap Blanc-Nez dominates the sea from the top of its vertiginous chalk cliffs. White rock, green grass, a bird's eye view of the Channel and its freighter highway: the site is spectacular. From there, Calais is another 10 km. You enter via Blériot-Plage, from where Louis Blériot took off in 1909 for the first crossing of the Channel by plane. Along the way, we will also have found some charming seaside resorts, such as Audresselles and Wissant, and quite a few possibilities for sleeping and eating with your nose offshore. ➤ OUR ADVICE: roaming in the mining area? It is possible, and it is another good option from Lille. Between Béthune and Valenciennes, seven loops of 50 to 115 km are labeled GR de Pays.

6/ WALKING IN A CANVAS BY CÉZANNE

51 km - 2 days - Loop from Aix-en-Provence station. This route will allow you to explore the Saint-Victoire mountain in depth, and cover its long summit ridge in its entirety, which rises like a wave of stone in the Marseille hinterland. From Aix, instead of going straight to the summit, go all the way east, to the village of Puyloubier, via the Bimont dam, the Cézanne refuge then the superb perched path which runs along the foot of the limestone walls (via the col of the Oppidum, the Baudino refuge, the Saint-Ser chapel). The next day, climb the ridges by the GR9 and follow them towards the setting sun, until you find the Bimont dam. The view will make you forget that there is no water or shade along the way. On this course, "it is not uncommon to believe you are in a large American park", judge Clément Lhommeau of Helloways. If you want to have fun, you can spend the night in Puyloubier, with its gourmet restaurants and its refreshing rosé in the fountain! Don't overdo it: you still have 2,000 m of elevation on the menu the next day… ➤ OUR ADVICE: from June to September, the massif may be prohibited because of the risk of fire. Find out before you go. Otherwise, you can also do this hike in spring, fall, and even winter!

GOURMET WALKS

Crossing the vines, touring the farms, climbing on the mountain pastures and good restaurants for the evening stage... These itineraries take you on a discovery of our terroirs. With the certainty of always having quality products on hand for the next day's picnic!

7/ THE GOLDEN VINES OF BEAUJOLAIS

109 km - 6 days - Loop from Lozanne. To the west of Villefranche, between the Saône and the Massif Central, this corner of Beaujolais is tinged with gold at sunset: it is known for its villages made of "golden stone", a local limestone of ocher-yellow color which has used to build castles, churches, washhouses... and winegrowers' houses. Perched villages like Ternand or Oingt are perfect examples. The GR de Pays which criss-crosses the region, departing from Lozanne (easily accessible by train from Lyon), weaves its way through the vineyards of the AOC Beaujolais. On the path or not far away, you will find prestigious estates and some good restaurants to taste the local gastronomy. Several shorter loops are possible. ➤ OUR ADVICE: Beaujolais has been labeled a UNESCO World Geopark since 2018, for its geological richness. The path runs along several remarkable sites, such as the "golden stone" quarries of Glay.

8/ THE GRANDS CRUS OF LANGUEDOC

73 km - 4 days - Loop from Saint-Mathieu-de-Trviers. In Montpellier, everyone knows the Pic Saint-Loup, which is both the name of a limestone mountain dominating the plain of Languedoc... and that of a wine, whose vines extend to the foot of the summit. . Departing from Saint-Mathieu-de-Trviers (accessible by public transport), the Tour des Vignes au Causse first crosses these wine-growing lands, passing close to half a dozen estates. The part around the picturesque chapel of Aleyrac, in the middle of the vineyards, with a view of the peak, is perhaps the most beautiful. "It's a magical stretch, where you feel like you're alone in the world," notes François Bou, from the FFRP committee in Hérault. Then the path rises on the causse, and joins the plain of London to the west before climbing the peak from the west, from where you overlook the entire wine-growing landscape. ➤ OUR ADVICE: two addresses for sleeping and (very good) eating: L'Auberge du Cèdre, opposite the Cazeneuve estate, and Le Mas de Baume, in Ferrières-les-Verreries.

9/ ENCOUNTERS AT THE FARM

53 km - 3 days - Montbard / Chanceaux. Enabling hikers to meet the farmers of the regions they cross: this is the objective of the association Au coeur des paysans, which imagines hiking trails interspersed with farm visits. Like this one, which leaves from the TGV station of Montbard to undulate in the green countryside of Auxois, in the north of the Morvan, to the village of Chanceaux, from where you can reach Dijon. Along the way, five farms (cereal production, cattle, sheep, chickens and snails) are open to visitors – remember to book. The area is steeped in history: here we are right next to the site of the Battle of Alésia. Do not miss the visit to the museum park. You also cross Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, one of the most beautiful villages in France, famous for its anise candies. ➤ OUR ADVICE: book a table at the best restaurant in the area: the Auberge du Cheval-Blanc, at Régis Bolâtre, in Alise-Sainte-Reine.

10/ GERS GOOD RESTAURANTS

30 (super) idées pour vos prochaines randonnées en France

153 km - 8 days - Loop from Auch. Here is a tempting walk to discover the gastronomic heritage of the South-West. Departing from the city of Auch (its Sainte-Marie cathedral is a major site on the Compostela route), the GR de Pays Cœur de Gascogne will take you through all the good addresses. First, in the spa town of Castéra-Verduzan, take the time to visit the Bidache farm, a specialist in Gascon black pork. In Condom, capital of Armagnac, producers organize tours and tastings. In La Romieu, Les Jardins de Coursiana offer plums, honey and homemade sorbets and you can picnic there. In Sainte-Mère, the Moulins farm produces foie gras, duck confit, and the famous Lectoure melon. Belly full, all you have to do is let yourself roll through the hilly countryside, from bastide to castelnau, from the ramparts of Lectoure to the abbey of Flaran, and its collection of paintings by Cézanne, Picasso, Courbet. .. ➤ OUR ADVICE: when it comes to good tables, there's plenty to choose from. Here are three: the traditional Florida in Castéra-Verduzan, the Racine in Lectoure, run by a Belgian and a Quebecer, and La Grande Salle in Auch, at the Hôtel de France, a local institution.

11/ THE PATHS OF THE GREEN FAIRY

48 km - 2 days - Pontarlier / Noiraigue (Switzerland). At the start of the 20th century, the prohibition of absinthe in France dealt a severe blow to the region of Pontarlier. The production of this plant alcohol was one of the jewels of this city of Haut-Doubs, and occupied, in its golden age, more than 3,000 people. But the lifting of the ban, in 2011, allowed the city to reclaim its status as the capital of the "green fairy". Five producers have set up shop there (and can be visited), including the Guy distillery, created in 1890. And an Absinthe route, coupled with a footpath, has been traced to Val-de-Travers, in the above Lake Neufchâtel, Switzerland. From Pontarlier, it first rises on the mountain of Larmont, crosses the border between woods and mountain pastures and descends to the banks of the Areuse, which it follows as far as Noiraigues. Along the way, you will come across other distilleries, the village of Couvert, the real cradle of absinthe at the end of the 18th century (before production was relocated to Pontarlier), but also the Maison de l'Absinthe, a beautiful and instructive museum, in Môtiers. ➤ OUR ADVICE: from Noiraigues, continue to the narrow gorges of the Areuse, a magical site full of waterfalls and small lakes. Possibility of return by the ridges and the top of the Tablets.

12/ ON THE PRINCE DES GRUYÈRES TRAIL

140 km - 6-8 days - Loop from Queige. With its steep trails, its 4,400 m drop and its full-frame view of Mont Blanc, this route would have had its place in the "Towards the summits" category. But going around the Beaufortain massif, between Albertville and Bourg-Saint-Maurice, is also the best way to discover the local speciality: Beaufort. Going above 1,500 m, towards the Cormet de Roselend, you will walk through mountain pastures dotted with flowers. It is there that graze, in summer, the tarines and the abundances whose milk is used as a basis for the "prince of Gruyères". Further on, a variant of the trail passes on a balcony above the photogenic Lac de Roselend and at the refuge of Plan Mya, an alpine chalet which serves mountain cuisine made from local products. And don't miss going to stock up in one of the dairy cooperative's shops, in Les Saisies, in Arèches (variant of the route) or in Beaufort – in the latter, you can even watch cheese being made. ➤ OUR ADVICE: Beaufortain is not just cow cheese! Go through the Chalet du Lac, at the foot of Mont Mirantin. They sell grataron d'Arèches, a delicious goat's cheese.

Hikes in small and medium mountains

Vosges balloons, Auvergne volcanoes, Jura highlands, pre-Alps… France is full of low and medium mountain routes. A wild setting and well-spread gradients which constitute a gently sloping prologue, before rubbing shoulders at higher altitudes!

13/ LITTLE MONGOLIA AUVERGNATE 135 km - 7-8 days - Loop from Egliseneuve d'Entraigues or Allanche. Neither puy de Sancy, nor puy de Dôme, nor Plomb du Cantal on this route. And yet, between the burons, the volcanic stone, and the cows galore, there is no doubt: we really are in Auvergne! Created in the 1980s, then abandoned, the Tour des Vaches Rouges has been refurbished and remarked. It crosses the green expanses of the high mountain pasture plateaus of Cézallier, a region as magnificent as it is unknown, culminating at an altitude of 1,458 m, in the heart of the Parc des Volcans d'Auvergne. "We are immersed in this landscape of 'little Auvergne Mongolia', in a very sparsely populated area", describes Philippe Tours, hiking technician. About twenty accommodations welcome hikers who want a little more comfort than a tent. ➤ OUR ADVICE: for those who only have a few days ahead of them, the tour can be divided into two loops of 80 km each.

14/ ON THE SIDE OF A SUPER-VOLCANO

140 km - 7-8 days - Loop from Murat, Le Lioran... Did you know that all the mountains of Cantal are the remains of a single super-volcano, the largest in Europe? Formed 13 million years ago, this sleeping colossus (its last eruption dates back 2 million years) has experienced intense activity, which has given rise to a tumultuous landscape. This hiker's paradise is surrounded by the star-shaped GR400, which hops briskly from one valley to another. If it takes a week to complete it, you can carve out a route of 2, 3, 4, 6 days... "Whatever the itinerary, try to include a passage through the ridges between the Puy Mary and the Col de Rombière, judge Sylvie Favat, of Cantal Destination. This is where we find the most spectacular landscapes."➤ OUR ADVICE: for a privileged view in the early morning, spend a night at the (unguarded) refuge of the buron d'Eylac, just at the foot of the puy Mary.

15/ THE SUMMUM OF PROVENCE

226 km - 10 days - Loop from Buis-les-Baronnies. The Baronnies Provençales tour crisscrosses a mid-mountain region between Drôme and Hautes-Alpes, protected by a regional natural park. Low density, tormented limestone relief, villages bathed in light, abundant wildlife... The route, which culminates at 1,500 m and totals 10,500 m of drop, offers a very real change of scenery. We walk there among the olive trees and the stone walls, up to the Buëch valley, where we approach the high peaks of the Ecrins and the Dévoluy. It is cut in the middle by the GR91, which makes it possible to do only part of it. "It is passable all year round, including winter, notes Philippe Poirier, of the FFRP of the Drôme. Be careful however, the summer, the heat can quickly become overwhelming." ➤ OUR ADVICE: save a day to venture on the Buis-les-Baronnies via ferrata, one of the longest and most beautiful in France.

16/ THE GRAND TOUR OF BALLOONS

70 km - 4 days - Loop from Orbey. Want to discover the Vosges? This 4-day loop crosses some of the most emblematic spots of the massif – without forgetting to get lost in a few secret corners. Departing from Orbey, it begins by climbing to Lac Blanc, before following the ridges a little below, via a series of lakes hidden between the fir trees (Lac du Forlet, Lac Vert...). After the Col de la Schlucht and the summit of the Hohneck (1,363 m), you will take the GR5 through the stubble (typical mountain pastures of the Vosges), then the GR532 to Petit Ballon. From there, all you have to do is join the Munster valley to return to the starting point. "It's a good introduction for those who don't know the massif, says Quentin Cogitore, who concocted this route for his Vosges hiking blog who can. The panoramas are superb, we discover most of the characteristic biotopes of the massif... and it there are parts involved, in particular the Roches path (a long section on the side of the cliff)." While some sites are very busy, especially in the summer, the crowd thins out the rest of the year. ➤ OUR ADVICE: allow yourself a stopover in one of the Petit Ballon farm inns. The opportunity to test the marcaire meal, the traditional peasant snack.

17/ THE HAUT-JURA OF CRÊTS EN COMBES

53 km - 3 days - Loop from Lélex. Leaving from Lélex (accessible by bus from the TGV station of Bellegarde-sur-Valserine), you start by joining the ridge path which runs to Colomby de Gex (1,688 m), one of the highest points of the massif. "From up there, the spectacle is incredible. We dominate the whole of Lake Geneva, with a panoramic view of the Chablais and the Mont-Blanc massif", describes Cyril Henry, project manager at the Grandes Traversées du Jura association. After Mijoux and Lajoux, a change of atmosphere: the route explores the country of the "hautes combes", these high plateaus at an altitude of more than 1,000 m, covered with meadows and spruce forests. After the small villages of Moussières and La Pesse, we descend gently towards Lélex. ➤ OUR ADVICE: in Les Moussières, a village with two AOCs (comté and bleu de Gex), pass by the Fromagerie du Haut-Jura which houses production workshops, a museum and a shop. We feel less guilty about refueling after three days of effort!

18/ BETWEEN GORGES AND PEATLANDS

110 km - 6 days - Chaux-des-Crotenay / Nyon (or Sain-Claude). L'Echappée jurassienne, 352 km from Dole to Lake Geneva, is a sort of west-east equivalent of the Grande Traversée du Jura, the classic route that criss-crosses the massif from north to south. The first third of the path is done at low altitude, through landscapes of gorges, waterfalls, lakes and bogs... But shortly after Lons-le-Saunier, the path begins to rise, until it rises above above 1,000 m approaching Switzerland. Before Les Rousses, the path passes over a balcony above Morez, then by the summit of Gros Crétet, at 1,300 m. You then have to choose: either continue to Nyon and Lake Geneva, two or three days' walk away via the GR5. Or branch off towards Saint-Claude, which is more practical if you want to return to Chauxdes-Crotenay by train. If you have two more days, you can also opt for a departure from Lons-le-Saunier, which allows you to make a detour to the Hérisson waterfalls and the viewpoint of the Four Lakes, two major sites in the Jura... before to take the classic route. ➤ OUR ADVICE: after Les Rousses, take a short detour to Prémanon to visit the Polar Worlds Area. The place houses the collections of the explorer Paul-Emile Victor (1907-1995), a local child.

High altitude hikes

Put on your best shoes and get out the walking sticks… These aerial routes will give you access to some of the most beautiful panoramas of the Alps and the Pyrenees. Even if we are not yet into mountaineering, we promise you some nice elevations!

19/ THE SECRET VALLONS OF LA VANOISE

60 km - 3-4 days - Loop from Val-d'Isère. Although this route connects some of the most beautiful corners of the Vanoise Park, you often find yourself alone crisscrossing the long valleys that surround the tip of the Sana (3,436 m). Leaving from Val-d'Isère, the ski lifts quickly disappear as you climb towards the Fond des Fours refuge. From there, we go due south towards the high Col de la Rocheure (be careful, the markings are minimal). The pass leads to the valley of the same name, a jewel lined with peaks at over 3000 m. You then reach the Plan du Lac, which is much busier, via a detour at altitude via the pass and the Pointe de Lancerlia (2909 m). Then we set off again due north towards the Leisse valley, dominated by the south face of the Grande Casse, up to the refuge and the pass of the same name. Return to Val-d'Isère via Tignes or Col de Fresse. ➤ OUR ADVICE: you can prolong the pleasure with many short day hikes all along the route (col des Fours and de la Vanoise, Lozières lakes, etc.).

20/ WONDERS OF THE UBAYE

61 km - 5 days - Loop from Larche, Fouillouse or Maljasset. Nestled between Queyras and Mercantour, the upper Ubaye valley is one of the wildest corners of the French Alps, dominated by the rocky bastions of Aiguille and Brec de Chambeyron. To flirt with these heights, follow the GRP Tour du Chambeyron. The calves are hot (more than 5,000 m of altitude difference), but the setting is well worth it: high mineral valleys, passes over 2,500 m (and a summit at 3,000, the head of the Frema, which is easily reached from the Col de la Gypière), waterfalls and glacial lakes (like that of the Nine Colors, heart-shaped), fauna and flora in abundance... without forgetting an exotic incursion into the Italian Val Maira. ➤ OUR ADVICE: take the Col de Sautron to complete the hike in three days. A bit more time ? Extend the two-day itinerary with the tour of Font Sancte.

21/ ON A STEEP SLOPE TOWARDS SWITZERLAND

45 km - 4 days - Loop from Sixt-Fer-à- Cheval, Samoëns, Morzine… Want to experience the hospitality of a Swiss "hut" (refuge) and taste a good rösti at an altitude of 2,000 m ? In the Giffre massif, the Tour des Dents Blanches, a short but tough circuit (4,200 m drop), winds around a small link culminating at 2,700 m between Haute-Savoie and Valais. You navigate there in a landscape of mountain pastures, high meadows and steep limestone walls, with some thrilling passages, such as the Col des Ottans, a long aerial chimney equipped with cables. Along the way, you will find several refuges, such as La Folly, Vogealle, or Susanfe, in Switzerland, from where you can climb the Haute Cime (3,257 m, a long and demanding hike to be done only in the absence of snow). ➤ OUR ADVICE: a departure from Sixt allows you to pass by the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, an impressive natural amphitheater formed by 2,000 m cliffs.

22/ THAT THE MOUNTAIN IS BEAUTIFUL

130 km - 11 days - Aiguebelle / Vizille. With some 11,000 m of elevation gain, its size is roughly equivalent to that of the Tour du Mont-Blanc or the Corsican GR20... With the advantage of finishing a little faster than these two great classics of mountain hiking . The high crossing of Belledonne, this massif which stretches between Savoie and Isère, bordered of course by urban areas and main roads, but very wild inside, is the new challenge for climbers. Since 2017, this route, originally created by the Fédération des Alpages, has been marked out in white and red under the name of GR738. From Aiguebelle in the north to Vizille in the south (or vice versa), you cross a compendium of what the mountain has to offer: forest paths, on the ridge or on the balcony, demanding passages in scree, mountain pastures, wild valleys, heights mineral, dark lakes, grandiose panoramas... "This route is intended to become one of the new essentials for mountain hiking", says Sylvain Bazin, journalist and author of La France des GR (ed. Glénat). ➤ OUR ADVICE: if the weather is good, climb to the refuge de la Pra, to the Croix de Belledonne (2,926 m), almost the highest point of the massif. A busy hike, but superb.

23/ ON THE SWALLOWS TRAIL

70 km - 3 to 5 days - Lescun or Arette / La Pierre Saint-Martin. At the beginning of the 20th century, in this region between the Basque Country and Béarn, hundreds of Spanish women crossed the border on foot, through the mountains, to look for work on the French side. Because of their black clothes, they were called "swallows". The Route des Swallows (or ruta de las Golondrinas) pays homage to them today. This cross-border path runs through the La Pierre Saint-Martin massif (or Larra-Belagua on the Spanish side), where the Pyrenees begin to rise above 2,000 meters. This region with limestone relief among the most spectacular in Europe is dominated by the pyramid of Pic d'Anie, at 2,504 m, which is climbed along the way. The itinerary, which visits four refuges in the two countries, exists in three versions: a sporty and mountainous 3-day, a "classic" 4-day, and a long 5-day, with an incursion on the Spanish side into the Belagua Valley (upper part of the Roncal Valley). OUR ADVICE: this karst massif hides some of the deepest chasms in the world underground. For a glimpse, visit the spectacular Verna room.

24/ IN THE SHADOW OF THE VIGNEMALE

102 km - 7 days - Loop from Fabrèges (Ossau valley). A one-week getaway in the heart of the Pyrenees National Park, around its giants over 3,000 m (Balaïtous, Vignemale, Grand Fache, Pic d'Enfer...): this is the menu tempting tour of the 3,000 lakes (3,000 Ibones). It begins on the French side, at the foot of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, and heads east: the small Migouélou refuge, the Cambalès lakes, the very popular Oulettes de Gaube refuge and its full-frame view of the Vignemale. .. Then it's the passage in Spain at the col des Mulets, and the return towards the west. “Between the two sides, French and Spanish, we can clearly see the difference in ecosystem, and also in culture!”, notes Julien Lageat, in charge of the Entrepyr project, a site compiling cross-border routes in the Pyrenees. Ascents of the high peaks around the route, between hiking and mountaineering, are possible but not to be taken lightly (good conditions and equipment required). The route, totaling 6,700 m in altitude, is easily divided into shorter variants. ➤ OUR ADVICE: to reach the official start, take the little Artouste train. To avoid this "touristy" preamble, go directly to the Col du Lurien.

Multi-day hikes in France

For those who have time on their hands, here is a selection of six breakaways that can be done, without rushing, in two to three weeks. Ideal for seeing the country, and for letting yourself be carried away, kilometer after kilometer, by this slow rhythm which is the charm of the great marches.

25/ NORMANDY BY ITS EDGES

436 km - 20-22 days - Isigny-sur-Mer / Mont-Saint-Michel. Certainly the GR34, which runs along the Breton coast for 2,000 km, is the king of coastal paths! But its Norman variant, the GR223 also has serious arguments. From Isigny-sur-Mer to Mont-Saint-Michel, it circles the Cotentin peninsula, that bit of Normandy that juts out into the Channel. Marshes, valleys and bocages, small ports like Barfleur or Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, urban passage through Cherbourg... And above all, miles and miles of coast lined with fields, where you pass immense beaches of sand in isolated bays, dunes in granite cliffs, under changing skies. To the north of the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, the view of the “Merveille” is unforgettable. This section is even nicknamed "the most beautiful kilometer in France"… ➤ OUR ADVICE: no time to cover the 460 km? Make do with a loop around one of the two points of the Cotentin: Cap de la Hague to the northwest, or Cap de Barfleur to the northeast.

26/ ARGOAT TRAILS

223 km - 12 days - Loop from Morlaix. In Brittany, we distinguish Armor, the coastal part, and Argoat, the inland. The first is well known to tourists, the second less… wrongly! To immerse yourself in it, you can walk the 500 km of the GR37, the classic crossing of Brittany by the interior. Or, less known, focus on Finistère and its GR380, a beautiful loop around the Monts d'Arrée. Mystical parish enclosures from the 16th-17th centuries, bewitching peat bog of Yeun Elez, where one expects to cross the Ankou at each step, eminences of Roc'h Trévézel and Roc'h Trédudon, intriguing rocky chaos of the forest de Huelgoat… We cross here the Brittany of fields and legends, lost villages, bocage and wild moors. It changes the coast! ➤ OUR ADVICE: if, despite everything, you want to go to the sea, just don't complete the loop and pick up the GR37 halfway, to go due west towards Crozon.

27/ THE CÉVENOLLE GETAWAY

240 km - 10-12 days - Le Puy-en-Velay / Saint-Gilles-du-Gard. And at the very end, the sea... Régordane is a bit like a "Stevenson bis path", but more direct and almost to the coast! Like its famous cousin, the GR700 leaves from Puyen-Velay, heads towards the Allier valley, Gévaudan, the Cévennes, then Alès. But he wastes no time in long detours: the Chemin de Régordane was a commercial and pilgrimage route in the Middle Ages, the final part of the axis leading from Île-de-France to the Mediterranean. Après Alès (où Stevenson s'arrête), le sentier continue vers Nîmes et Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, jadis port florissant, à la lisière de la Camargue. De ce riche passé historique et culturel, on croise moult traces : villages médiévaux, châteaux, églises... Le tout dans un paysage toujours changeant, des forêts des hauts plateaux du Massif central à la douceur des Costières. ➤ NOTRE CONSEIL : le chemin longe plus ou moins la "ligne des Cévennes", reliant Clermont-Ferrand à Nîmes. On trouvera donc toujours une gare pour écourter le séjour.

28/ EN DESCENDANT LA LOIRE

430 km - 16-20 jours - Bonny-sur-Loire ou Briare / Mûrs-Erigné (Angers). Longer le plus beau fleuve de France à vélo, voilà une idée qui s'est imposée comme un des grands classiques du cyclotourisme. Mais l'itinéraire peut aussi s'envisager à pied… A condition d'avoir du temps devant soi. Le GR3, qui relie le mont Gerbier-de-Jonc à l'Atlantique, s'allonge en effet sur 1 243 km. Ce qui, bon pied bon oeil, se parcourt en deux mois. Un objectif intermédiaire peut être de parcourir sa partie la plus majestueuse, classée au patrimoine de l'Unesco : celle des châteaux, des vignobles et des vues iconiques sur le fleuve sauvage, entre l'est du Loiret et la région d'Angers. On s'élancera alors de Bonny-sur-Loire ou de Briare, connu pour son étonnant pont-canal enjambant le fleuve. Avant de se laisser glisser, au fil de l'eau, jusqu'à Orléans, Blois, Amboise, Tours, Saumur... "Le GR3 est le premier GR créé en France, en 1947, raconte Didier Babin, président de la Fédération française de randonnée pédestre. Il n'est pas surfréquenté, traverse de très belles régions... et vous mènera jusque devant l'incomparable Chambord !" ➤ NOTRE CONSEIL : pour une facette plus sauvage de la Loire, aventurez-vous en amont, toujours sur le GR3, ou l'une de ses variantes (GR3F, GR des gorges de la Loire).

29/ ESCAPADE EN PAYS CATHARE

117 km - 9 à 12 jours - Foix / Berga (Espagne). L'exil plutôt que le bûcher : au Moyen Âge, fuyant l'Inquisition, les derniers Cathares ou "Bonshommes" empruntaient cet itinéraire pour trouver refuge au nord de la Catalogne. Au départ de Foix, le chemin des Bonshommes (GR107) recoupe d'abord le plus connu sentier Cathare, qui rejoint la Méditerranée. Mais passé le bastion de Montségur et les gorges de la Frau, il bifurque plein sud, et s'enfonce dans un pays secret de moyenne montagne, pour rejoindre la haute vallée de l'Ariège et le col de Puymorens, franchissement ancestral des Pyrénées. Le passage d'un autre col, celui de Portella Blanca (2 517 m), vous fera ensuite poser le pied en Espagne. Le chemin continue vers le parc naturel de Cadi-Moixero, forteresse calcaire couverte de forêt, traverse une poignée villages, et contourne le double sommet fourchu du Pedraforca. Il reste un à deux jours jusqu'à Berga. ➤ NOTRE CONSEIL : depuis Mérens, une variante montagnarde vous fera rejoindre Porté-Puymorens par un autre col d'altitude, avec un joli passage le long de l'étang de Lanoux.

30/ IMMERSION DANS LA FRANCE SAUVAGE

250 km - 11 jours - Aumont-Aubrac / Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. Rien qu'un coup d'œil sur la carte, et on sait déjà qu'on va en prendre plein les yeux. Le chemin de Saint-Guilhem, qui commence sur le haut plateau de l'Aubrac, traverse en effet quelques-uns des coins les plus sauvages de France. Vous passerez ainsi par le village de Sainte-Énimie, juste aux portes des gorges du Tarn, traverserez les solitudes arides de la causse Méjean et sillonnerez à travers les Cévennes jusqu'au pied du mont Aigoual… Avec un final en fanfare dans l'amphithéâtre calcaire du cirque de Navacelles (Hérault). Jadis, ces 240 km étaient parcourus par les bergers, pèlerins et commerçants passant des hautes terres au bas pays. Sorti de l'ombre il y a une dizaine d'années, c'est aujourd'hui un parcours de pure beauté à travers une France rurale et préservée, où les espaces sont infinis et les panoramas beaux à pleurer. "C'est assurément la plus belle traversée du Massif central, et aucun des lieux par lequel on passe ne mérite d'être contourné", vante le journaliste Sylvain Bazin, auteur de La France des GR (éd. Glénat). ➤ NOTRE CONSEIL : si vous voulez profiter un peu plus de l'ambiance unique des gorges du Tarn, une variante consiste à remonter celles-ci depuis La Canourgue.

📸 9 accessoires bien utiles à glisser dans son sac à dos de rando

➤ "Marche et rêve", un dossier paru dans le magazine GEO Aventure n°11 de novembre-décembre 2020.

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