Givenchy - Marie Claire parades
Manches à volants affriolantes, silhouette cintrée et col affûté : pièce maîtresse du style Givenchy naissant, la blouse Bettina est aussi la première pièce qu’Hubert de Givenchy présente lors de son tout premier défilé en 1952. Il a alors 25 ans et s’apprête à révolutionner les codes de l’élégance contemporaine en offrant aux femmes des vêtements à la sophistication décontractée, à la retenue confortable. Un certain sens du chic en somme, plébiscité par des tenantes du glamour telle qu'Audrey Hepburn et Grace de Monaco, que l’on retrouvera tout au long des présentations et défilés Givenchy, organisés généralement en petit comité jusqu’au retrait de son fondateur, en 1995.
Cheeky shows
Because on the arrival of John Galliano, then a young fashion designer, the Givenchy parades take on another magnitude.With a new artistic impulse under the sign of exuberance, it is the creations themselves that make the show, resuscitating a relaxing house.His first parade?“An intoxicating and highly spiritual staging based on baroque sketches all in green, orange, pink oriental kitten and Parma like chamarked cocktails!”described at the time Daniel Light in the Liberation columns.
With in 1996 the arrival of Alexander McQueen, second artistic director with British heritage, it is a new revolution that shakes the noble Parisian house.Authentic artistic performances, Givenchy parades are less like a tendency laboratory than a provocative reflection on the world around us.Strange, sometimes disturbing, the avant-garde scenographies thought by the British troublemaker make the great titles of the press, redefining the contours of a house with originally bourgeois DNA.
Contemporary nobility
With Riccardo Tisci, it's a new stylistic era that opens up.Under the yoke of the Italian just thirty, the Givenchy parades become the anti-chamber of iconic bestsellers, such as the Nightingale IT-Bag, the Rottweiler print or the Bambi sweatshirt, but also red carpet outfits,celebrities in vogue softening his precious creations.In 2010, TISCI replaced haute couture parades with presentations on wood mannequins, in order to enhance the crafts and the work of goldsmiths of the workshops.He will even go so far as to open one of the public shows during the birthday parade celebrated in New York in September 2017.First woman at the head of the prestigious house named in 2017, Clare Waight Keller will soon mark the Givenchy parades of her imprint, restoring their letters of nobility while inscribing them in a certain form of modernity, so much with Haute-sewing that it helps to relaunch that with ready-to-wear.