Sport Couture: Belgians, World Champions - Elle.be

Si l’industrie des vêtements de sport à longtemps souffert d’une réputation écologique écornée, de belles initiatives belges développent des lignes de sportwear couture, éthiques et durables.

An astonishing observation: Belgium, a small country certainly historically renowned for its creative liveliness, conceals a remarkable concentration of sportwear couture and managers, proportionally to the whole European market.In addition to the remarkable technological advances, styling and materials made in Belgium open a bubble of well-being that slides towards semi-couture.For effort as if to work, seduce or relax, you feel dressed and comfortable at the same time.It is the meeting of the famous art of living dear to Belgians and constant technological research, in which several local companies are market leaders.

A real ecosocial commitment

With 42 | 54, their brand ultra-performer in effort and Urban-Chic with relevance, Olivia Borlée and Elodie Ouédraogo successfully pass from Olympic medalists to holding Ethical title.Using exclusively Belgian fabrics, part of their collection is manufactured in Belgium, and the other in Tunisia."We first traveled to visit the workshops, and ensure that the working conditions were responsible and respectful."More than anyone in the sector, they have the experience of the reality on the ground:" The athletes choose their clothes for their technical and aerodynamic performance, often without worrying about their production conditions.We have tested everything to guarantee both quality and performance: the evacuation of perspiration, the weight of materials which are “stretched” in the four dimensions, offering excellent support, a second skin effect, and aAbsolute freedom of movement.»»

Depuis le début de leur marque, les deux créatrices ont développé une démarche « sustainable»» : en 2020, tous leurs tissus sont issus de matériaux recyclés et de fins de stock.“For packaging, we work with the Finnish company Repack, which produces packaging in already reconditioned materials, which are then given in the chain at least twenty times.»» Les clients peuvent renvoyer gratuitement ces emballages qui économisent plastique et papier, qui sont résistants aux chocs et à l’eau, pour qu’ils reviennent dans le circuit.

Innovation in starting blocks

A high -end and eco -responsible production cannot be envisaged without sustained research, and at this level too, Belgium is at the forefront.For 133 years, Liebaert has produced premium quality elastic fabrics and bands in Deinze, Flanders in Flanders.

Camille Liebaert, 27 ans, à la tête de la marque Recto Verso, raconte la genèse de cette première ligne de « produits finis»» développée par la maison : « Nous avons participé à des recherches avec l’université de Gand pour produire des leggings compressifs adéquats à l’amélioration des performances des sportifs et la récupération après l’exercice.My father, Alain Liebaert, wanted to found a small workshop to produce the pieces that the university needed for his research.»» C’était il y a trois ans.The experience has proven to be conclusive: "We then decided to launch a brand, to develop our own prototypes.»» Élaboration des tissus et production de la collection sont donc entièrement assurées sur place."Often, high -end sports brands are either hyper technical, but not very stylish, or very aesthetic, but not really efficient.We wanted to offer an alternative, with very urban pieces.Recto verso is intended for intensive sport with an urban design.»»

Like all the entrepreneurs we have encountered for this subject, Camille is sporty.Recovering midfielder at FC Latem, it tests in action the performance of the fabrics that use EMANA technology.Developed by Solvay, biostimulation fibers redistribute body heat, improve circulation, blood oxygenation, and allow better recovery.In addition, and it's always good to take, this fabric treats the softness of the skin.Recto Verso is only in its second collection, but has already been selected by Flander DC to be represented at Milan Fashion Week.

The art of living as a cultural sport

Julie de Laet, founder of the Yoga by Julz brand, assiduously practices yoga: "I noticed that for courses, people wear mostly black, or ethnic prints - which is not really my style - or eventheir fitness outfits.I lacked a specifically designed proposition for yoga, which I could also carry for my other activities.»» En 2017, Julie lance donc sa marque, qu’elle produit au Portugal, à partir de tissus techniques issus d’une production responsable."I source ecological materials, organic cotton or recycled polyamide as much as possible.I work with an expert, because today everyone claims to be "sustainable", but you have to know the sector, and know how to sort the information.»»

Same chic chic energy on the side of the Play Pauze brand, created by Katrien Smets and Hilde de Baerdemaeker, who met two years ago during a yoga internship in Marrakech. Katrien Smets produisait déjà une collection de loungewear en Belgique, et ensemble, elles ont lancé leur ligne de « yoga meets red carpet»»."We are very straddling on ethics.The fabrics are 100 % ecological, and technically, we aim for perfect comfort, especially to evacuate perspiration, whether for Activewear, Shapewear, or our line "Seamless".For months, we wash the parts, we live them, we adapt them to our own needs.»» Dans sa démarche de coolitude, Play Pauze décline toutes les tailles, pour les femmes de tous âges, avec des pièces intemporelles, en évitant les imprimés « trop tendance»» : « On doit pouvoir méditer tranquille !»»

Anti-cliché sports clothes

You can also launch a brand of Tailored Active Wear, with sewing lines, epaulettes and bare backs, while following a sporting and eco -responsible reflection.This is the course of the Noenoe Roevens self -taught, which founded Nunu five years ago.Another passionate about sport and yoga who had trouble finding both feminine, durable, elegant, effective collections.She left the family notariat to request the mentoring of a professor of the Antwerp Academy who taught her the techniques of the fashion drawing.It gradually entered the profession by building a network and by word of mouth.The brand is already sold internationally, in high -end stores, soon in the spring in Paris.The creator claims to be the first in Europe to have used 100 % biodegradable packaging, and has recovered from the start of her fabric falls to make packaging.The labels are recycled, even its business cards.From one season to the next, it reuses its stocks of fabrics so as not to buy it. D’autre part, « des vêtements conçus pour toutes les occasions de la journée, ça représente aussi moins de machines à laver»». Dans l’atelier tunisien qui fabrique ses collections (le shapewear et les maillots de bain sont eux produits en Belgique), « les femmes sont bien payées, elles ont des droits, elles travaillent dans des bâtiments confortables avec la climatisation»».Noenoe is proud to be transparent: "I am always ambivalent when I see brands that claim to be" sustainable "and which are not at all.It’s almost impossible to be 100%, but it’s a duty to get closer.»»

The challenges of the finish line

The next challenges for sports brands will be to think about circular technical tissues that can be recycled several times, and to reduce the number of washes of clothing.For Olivia Borlée, "that the technicality of the fabrics no longer impacts style, it is already a great step forward, but the next step is also the technology integrated into clothes, to calculate heartbeat for example.Technical question, sportswear evolves very quickly, as well as in terms of style, for women in particular.The innovations of the sports environment allow these textile technologies to adapt to the pace of our daily life, and increasingly influence ready-to-wear.»» La Belgique est une fois encore bien placée pour prendre la tête.

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