What if we wore jacquard?
Par Marie-Caroline Bougère
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Retour sur l’histoire du Jacquard, tissu star des garde-robes et décorations hivernales, mais aussi des fêtes de fin d’année.
Ils déferlent chaque année dans de nombreuses collections de fin d’année. Il faut bien le concéder, le jacquard rime avec hiver. Preuve en sont ce tissu damassé remarquable de par ses couleurs variées aux reflets souvent irisés et son cousin le motif Jacquard. Comme le satin, ils ne sont pas une matière en soi, mais pour le premier une technique d’impression de motifs par tissage de fils de couleurs entrecroisés, généralement fabriqué en région Rhône-Alpes dans la pure tradition du tissage lyonnais. Pour l’autre c’est bien la façon de tricoter la maille dans la pure tradition britannique.
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The little story of the Jacquard made in lyon
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The Jacquard -Sans reference to the film The visitors obviously - was created in 1801 by Joseph Marie Jacquard, a Lyonnais weaver who set the "JACQUARD WORKS";A programmable machine operating with perforated cards guiding the hooks, themselves raising the wires, in order to create complicated patterns.Very often geometric, they are not embroidered on the outside of the fabric but are indeed part of the latter by bringing it relief and nobility by their placement, as well as by the diversity of the fibers used (silk, lurex ...).
A revolutionary weaving profession for the time and still considered the ancestor of the computer as technology is evolved.The Lyonnais weaver developed it to prevent children from this meticulous work.But this invention was afraid of workers and other artisans of Lyon silk, which caused the canut revolt to deal with the competition of the machines.This technical feat ended up even attracting the attention of Napoleon Bonaparte, who strongly encouraged his creator to perfect his invention in the national interest.
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The English jacquard
Imaxtree
This technique is not to be confused with the Jacquard motif, a tradition from across the Channel and today popularized by the trend of "Christmas sweater".The so -called "jacquard" reason -troduction of "fair isle" a small shetland island north of Scotland - is a complex weaving of many sons of colors who intersecting create a pattern. It was born on theseLands with harsh winters, from the hands of marine women who knitted sweaters intended to be hot and robust.
This crafts could have been confidential, but that was without counting on the "trendy launcher" Aka the prince of Wales Edouard VIII, who, in 1921, appeared in public dressed in a vest with a very colorful Jacquard pattern.Traditionally, the "fair isle" does not imply infinite patterns knitted with a palette of five to six colors, but keeps the principle of two colors per row.Among the most classic patterns, we know the chevron and the diamond, today often supplanted by flakes or even pop culture stars like startroopers.Who does not yet have their red and white sweater at the Rennes pattern?
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