Winter Motorbike: to the Marmottes of Saint-Véran in a Honda Monkey 125

As a young city dweller holding an A2 licence, riding a motorbike is, for me, only synonymous with travels in Ile-de-France, nothing more. But besides that, I dream of going on a motorcycle trip, traveling through Europe, Asia... even the world armed with a tent and a duvet. To admit it all, my wildest dream would be to roam the Japanese roads alongside the Bosozoku without time limit... My recent meeting with Gilles Mariani, ex-globe trotter in Peugeot 102 and 103, inspired me more than ever awakened the call of travel.

Finally, my first adventure will be French. What could be better than exploring our lands during a first motorcycle roadtrip?

The beginnings of the adventure

During a lunch with the editorial staff, Philippe evokes the idea of ​​a report at the Marmottes winter festival in Saint-Véran, on January 7, 8 and 9, 2022. He offers me to accompany him with Thierry (manager of Moto Magazine) and Fred (journalist video editor): "Would you like to come with us to the Hautes-Alpes?" he asks me. I answer in the affirmative, always fond of new experiences on a motorcycle. My playful answer triggers collective hilarity. "Are you sure? It's not an easy path, you're going to curdle them!" he exclaims, all smiles. I maintain my position and take up the challenge: "Don't worry, being cautious is not my style..."

What motorcycle will I have the chance to ride during the journey? Philippe brings me back to Earth by offering me a Honda Monkey 125. Facing my tense gaze, he explains to me that there is no better than a small 125 cm3 with flat feet in case of slipping. It holds! I already imagined myself riding a Royal Enfield Himalayan... But let's go! I remain attentive to the wise advice of seasoned bikers.

Motorcycle winter: but what is it exactly?

In addition to being Community Manager, web editor and presenter of A2 eligible motorcycles at Moto Magazine, I administer the sections of the site, such as the events calendar. This is where I discovered the existence of motorcycle winter events: Millevaches, Marmottes... Curiously named, these events seem major in view of the various corrected and published reports.

The concept is simple: motorcycle adventurers go to meet and camp in the mountains. Nothing that sends me dreaming at first sight, but curiosity wins! What can motivate all these bikers to go so far (and so high!) in the middle of winter?

First motorcycle trip: from Grenoble / Villard-Bonnot to Saint-Véran in a Honda Monkey 125

All the writing is clear: I have to equip myself properly or I will end up like Jack Nicholson at the end of the movie The Shining. I put on the only armor I have on hand: touring boots, thermal underwear, wool sweater, winter gloves, mid-season jacket and rain suit. When I observe the sharp equipment deployed by my colleagues, I pale into insignificance, telling myself that my non-cautiousness will play a major role in the event...

On board the Honda Monkey 125, I am immediately at ease. As Philippe explained to me during my test of the CB500F, even by closing your eyes, you know you have a Honda in your hands: the flexible controls, the smooth and precise gearbox, the commodos naturally under the fingers... I feel "at home" riding this little bike.

Leaving for Saint-Véran, I was surprised by the handling, the comfort, the lightness (104 kg tpf!) and the vigor of the machine's 9.4 hp. The weight/power ratio, the studded tires and the low seat height create a reassuring alchemy on the roads of the Hautes-Alpes.

First climb in the mountains, snow and freezing cold hit my rain suit. The mist rises on the road lined with snow and ice. The Monkey resists, does not wobble and adapts to the conditions. I make sure to drive in the user's tire tracks to maintain grip. My average speed is 50 km/h, I can't do more in these circumstances. I notice that Philippe and his Mash Side Force sidecar aren't doing much better (where did you see that, honey? Note from PG). Only Thierry and his Zontes 310T shod with all-season tires (Dunlop Mutant) seem to be the most comfortable. Lucky one !

An hour's drive later, we pass by the northern part of the Napoleon road (Vizille by the coast of Laffrey, La Mure and Corp). The mist lifts and the sun illuminates the mountains, the streams and the white coat illustrate the scenery. The landscapes are so sublime that I almost forget my chapped lips and the tips of my fingers frozen by the freezer wind. Finally, the 70 km/h average speed is a godsend so as not to end up in a yeti...

On the way down to Gap, the mountain roads curve and steepen, a special kind of rally or drift track. Clinging to the handlebars of the Monkey 125, I have the temptation to grab the brakes, very effective on this machine. But that would be synonymous with getting down to business. Instinctively, I change strategy as I approach the hairpins: stalled on the tire tracks drawn at the ends of my lane, I abandon the front brake, put my foot on the rear brake, ready to unsheath my left foot on the ground. I drop a report upstream and play on the engine brake.

Once in the hairpin - always placed on the tracks made by the users to dodge the frost - I bend my chest slightly, look out of the bend, dose my acceleration gently and straighten up on the road... I exclaims with relief, because it works! I cannot thank enough my natural prudence combined with the intrinsic qualities of the Honda Monkey 125.

Technique all found, the lump in the stomach fades and I take advantage again of the flamboyant decorations of the Hautes-Alpes. We cross Gap, heading due East. A break is granted to us in Savines-le-Lac, facing the lake of Serre-Ponçon. What can I say, apart from multiplying the superlatives of wonder at the show...

Back on the road, we climb towards Saint-Véran, where the route is easier to grasp than downhill. The experience and learning acquired on my little motorcycle facilitate my turns despite the slippery surfaces.

The landscapes are absolutely beautiful, so coming back to discover the heritage of the region is part of my future programs. From village to village (Embrun, Guillestre), we arrive at Château-Queyras. The building overlooking the valley, halfway between a fortified castle and a "modern" second home, cultivates my imagination; I am amused to suppose that Dracula's little cousin has found a home there...

Last virolos and we finally arrive at Saint-Véran, the highest town in Europe. A superb little village with wooden houses built high up.

Anyone got tips on how to stop eating liter tubs of ice cream in one sitting? I'm trying to tone down for wrestling, not fatten up 😂

— nothing but leah Mon May 17 00:20:05 +0000 2021

Upstream, a "village within the village" stands there: the famous concentration of Marmottes. Victoire !

The Winter Marmottes of Saint-Véran: a unique atmosphere, a warm welcome

The welcome by the "marmotards" is so warm that it almost warms my numb body. The atmosphere reminds me of music festivals with Mad Max village aspects, made of tents, barbecues and mechanical curiosities.

Indeed, the majority of the machines present are well-prepared sidecars and large "tuned" trails to face snow and ice.

Most of the bikers give a big smile when they see me disembarking on my little motorbike. "Is it an old one?" one asks me. "Ah but it's a Dax?" the other asks me. Most are stunned to see that such a machine exists in the catalog in 2021, and above all, that we can climb so high in the mountains on its handlebars!

However, the sidecar couple with whom I sympathize is not surprised. "Oh you know, I've already gone up to Les Marmottes on a Motobécane. The advantage is that you can put your feet up if it ever slips!". Philippe's specter looms in the winter mist and whispers a little "I told you so!".

Walking around such a concentrate is a bit like visiting a Star Wars paddock. The machines overflow with variety and mechanical inventiveness. The trails (Africa Twin, Transalp, Ténéré 700, 790 Adventure, R 1200 GS...) sport mini-skis suspended or unfoldable at the feet in order to maintain balance on the snow (first time I have seen such installations! ).

The sidecars meanwhile, seem ready to go around the world. Other more "classic" motorcycles are installed from time to time, as evidenced by the few Royal Enfield Bullets and Triumph Bonnevilles.

I recognize the famous BMW K1 and its magnificent 80's retro-futuristic dress, hitched to a matching "basket". A Yamaha VMax tumbles, also hitched.

Then I approach this superb glowing VFR 750 RC36, where its young pilot explains to me that he has simply fitted the tires with re-adapted car snow covers. Like what, with a minimum of preparation, we can consider a Winter with various motorcycles...

The young Marie - license A recently - and her CB500 PC32 is the best example: despite a few slips, she conquered the winding roads of the Hautes-Alpes to join her group of friends here, in Saint-Véran. What a brave heroine!

Later I meet my friend Marco, designer of Moto Magazine and used to winter. We discuss his motorcycle, his old Kawasaki W650, his Royal Enfield Bullet which transported him over thousands of kilometres. But this time, he came with his friend Bertrand, as a passenger in the "Orange Bleue", a Triumph 900 Scrambler sidecar designed by Alternative side-car.

I point out to him the beautiful Yamaha FJ1200 here and there, carefully prepared in Side. He explains to me that the "Comete" basket, designed by the "Side Bike" company, was specially designed for this motorcycle in the 1980s.

But what appeals to me the most are the many biodesign Side-Bikes straight out of a concept-bike show or better still, from a science-fiction film: the Zeus Side-Bikes. Marco explains to me that these are 100% Side preparations, powered by 4-cylinder Peugeot 206 (!). They are piloted with pedals and feature a car dashboard. I remain speechless in front of these "Frankenstein" of the 3-wheelers...

The sun is setting, the -10 degrees tingle, I approach the makeshift barbecue of a group of young winter enthusiasts. One of them, pleasantly surprised that I am the owner of the Honda Monkey 125, explains to me that he has just bought a second-hand one to alternate with his 790 adventure. The current passes, the band is of my generation of age. We talk about motorcycles, manga and even Bosozoku! A young biker tells me that he discovered this universe thanks to our aperitif on the subject. This is great fun!

Fatigue begins to weigh on the team, it's time to go home to eat and let these beautiful memories rest... Before hitting the road the next day for new journeys.

The Honda Monkey 125, this faithful ally in all weathers

Whether on the journey to Saint-Véran, or on the descent to Grenoble, the Honda Monkey 125 turned out to be a wonderful little machine. Despite the climatic and road conditions, it has always sought to be reassuring without failing. The few slips were quickly corrected by its studs, its rear brake and its adjustable torque.

Its ease of piloting and its vigor accompanied me for 2 full days without weakening. Like the Honda CB500F, I fell in love with this brave little motorcycle, easy to take everywhere, even in the heart of the Hautes-Alpes.

Back on the bitumen of Ile-de-France, I dread the moment when I will have to part with it. Because as surprising as it may seem, it is just as endearing in the urban jungle as in the mountains.

In truth, the Honda Monkey is much more than a 125: it is a symbol of freedom accessible to all, able to take it anywhere, in all weathers and at a lower cost (consumption of 1.5L to 100!).

As for the 200 km adventure to Saint-Véran and the culture that opened up to me, they will remain in my memory. The microcosm of bikers and bikers, motivated by surpassing themselves and animated by the joy of sharing their adventures is something rare, even non-existent where I live.

Just for that, I invite all young bikers, A2 or not, to try the experience. With a minimum of preparation (equipment, winter tire covers), a suitable motorcycle, while taking care to avoid potential dangers (riding on tire tracks, avoiding ice and limiting the use of the front brake on the roads jellies), the adventure is worth the effort!

_Photo credit: Emerick Houplain, Nicolas Baudon, Eric Bleuse