Woolmark Prize: Discover the history of the oldest fashion competition in the world
In the beginning was wool
Unlike many prizes that aim to promote a brand, the International Woolmark Prize stands out for its function: to promote merino wool. A few years after its foundation in 1936, the International Wool Secretariat (which brings together wool manufacturers from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa in order to promote their product in the northern hemisphere) organizes a competition intended to unearth new design talents. The idea? Compete with the emergence of synthetic materials by offering modern and original creations, worn by the young fashion generation.
Constantly reinvented, this prize bears witness in itself to the evolution of the fashion industry but also stands out for its unique functioning. If most designers today are expected to present a finished garment in any competition, the International Wool Secretariat Prize (its name at the beginning) put young designers and seasoned couturiers, the former submitting sketches to the latter who then had them executed by their workshops. An original and unique mentoring system that will give rise to unique partnerships and which will be the source of some of the most decisive meetings in the industry.
Absent from the radar for a while (due to a slump in the wool industry), the award reinvented itself for the first time in the 1980s, becoming the Woolmark Award. Ten years later, the institution forged a first partnership with the Royal College of Art in London, which then saw its students placed in the most prestigious houses. But it will be necessary to wait until 2012 for it to take the form that we still know today and to be named the International Woolmark Prize. Open to young designers promoting eco-friendly fashion, the competition brings together seven finalists each year, supervised by a panel of experts, to create a collection which then allows them to compete to win the International Woolmark Prize or the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation. At stake ? A scholarship but also professional supervision and the possibility of marketing their creations in some of the biggest brands in the world. And proof that the model adapts again and again to changes in fashion and society, the 2021 edition was mainly digital (world pandemic requires) and the distinction between men's and women's collections has disappeared to make way for a more global creativity.
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Renowned winners
Because it is the oldest competition in the industry, the International Woolmark Prize has seen a succession of the biggest names in fashion, whether in the position of candidate or jury. Its most famous winners? Valentino Garavani, who won the first edition of the competition in the early 1950s. While a student, his victory opened the doors to the workshops of Jean Dessès where he made his debut. In 1953, 16-year-old Yves Saint Laurent won third prize. He will return the following year and will shine in the dresses category while facing him, a young Karl Lagerfeld will win the same distinction in the coats category. Beginning of success but also and above all of prolific careers, this day in November 1954 paves the way for the two designers. The first will enter the stride at Christian Dior (whom he will succeed in 1957, following his death), while the second is invited to try his hand at Balmain. A few years later, Giorgio Armani made a name for himself by becoming the first (and to date, the only) designer to win the competition twice, in 1988 and 1992. Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Romeo Gigli would follow in the middle of the 90s. More recently, it is the Australian Dion Lee, the Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst, the Indian Rahul Mishra and the Irish Richard Malone who have distinguished themselves during the last editions.
On the jury side, the list is just as prestigious. From Donatella Versace to Victoria Beckham via Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath or even Andre Leon Talley and Diane von Fürstenberg, the biggest names in design and style have over the years taken the time to evaluate the collections of young competitors.
Seven eclectic finalists for 2022
Last week, the institution revealed the names of its seven finalists for the 2022 edition: Ahluwalia, RUI, Jordan Dalah, Egonlab, PETER DO, MMUSOMAXWELL and Saul Nash. Coming from all over the world and more or less widespread in popularity, they will present their collections on April 15, just before the winner is revealed.
Familiar with competitions, Priya Ahluwalia has already stood out by winning the 2019 edition of the H&M Design Award and being among the finalists for the LVMH Prize in 2020. Promoting modern menswear influenced by her Indo-Nigerian roots and her London youth , she quickly established herself as one of the most promising newcomers in the industry. Also popular in recent seasons, the Peter Do label (led by the designer of the same name) has distinguished itself by offering minimalist but original fashion, rooted in everyday life and in the direct line of Celine at the time of Phoebe Philo (with whom the designer has also made its debut).
Dancer and choreographer, Saul Nash strives to revolutionize men's fashion by building links between luxury menswear and activewear. The key ? Unprecedented freedom of movement reinforced by the use of unexpected materials. Queen of knits, Rui Zhou, founder of the Rui brand, has been exploring the different facets of bodysuits and jumpsuits since 2018. Stretch, openwork, avant-garde, his pieces with a unique aesthetic have earned him the attention of the greatest.
Genderless, committed and connected to the world around it, the Egonlab brand is designed to dress all bodies in fashion inspired by the greatest artistic movements. Masterful and dramatic, Jordan Dalah's creations combine theatricality and functionality, for a unique OTT style. Finally, MMUSOMAXWELL, worn by the duo formed by Maxwell Boko and Mmuso Potsane, stands out for its sharp and elegant feminine ready-to-wear. Enough to promise great moments next April.
