27/07/2022 By acomputer 742 Views

The fabulous history of luxury

LUXURY

4,600 years BC.J.-VS.The discovery of gold, in Bulgaria

Gold is the second metal known by humans after copper.The oldest object in gold has been uncovered in Varna, Bulgaria.In this 294 graves necropolis, there were approximately 3,000 objects (tiaras, bracelets, vases, necklaces, pendants...), of a total weight of more than 6 kilos of pure gold.

3,500 years BC.J.-VS.Sumerians, real fashion engravings

Located between the tiger and the Euphrates (today Iraq), it is customary to say that the region of Sumer was paradise on earth, as evidenced by the scenes of life engraved on tablets that we have.They reveal an inseparable phenomenon of luxury: fashion variations.Thus, while the first Sumerians wore the beard and long hair, they later appear skull and shaved chin.And the clipping of the fabrics around the body varies over the years.

3,200 years BC.J.-VS.The pharaonic luxury of the Egyptians

The reign of the pharaohs lasted nearly four millennia, which makes it the longest dynastic period in history.Around 3,000 years before our era began the pyramid era."7 to 9% of the population belonged to the ruling class, which owned the most luxurious villas and attires," writesJean Castarède."The refinement of the wealthy Egyptians is reflected in their furniture, their jewelry and residences, terrestrial or eternal.»»

3,000 years BC.J.-VS.Woven silk appears in China

The invention of weaving by Si Ling Ché, wife of Emperor Houang Ti, dates back 3,000 BC.J.-VS.From antiquity, the silk route connecting the countries of the West and the East stimulated the trade of luxury objects.

2,000 years.J.-VS.In Babylon, the first palaces, in the most luxurious city in the world

In Mesopotamia, Babylonian civilization replaces the Sumerian culture.The city of Babylon was undoubtedly the most luxurious in the world.At its peak, the palace of Nabuchodonosor II extended over 513 square kilometers, seven times Paris.On the terraces of the city pushed rare plants and trees: the famous gardens of Babylon.But it is also luxury debauchery that will cause decadence, then the loss of this civilization.

1,800 years BC.J.-VS.The First Incas goldsmiths

The Incas had a particularly developed artistic meaning for their time.They carried out very beautiful gold objects, metal considered at all times as the most luxurious.

400 years BC.J.-VS.The Greeks invent the arts of the table...and cooked

At the table, the rich Greeks did not refuse anything: fish noted with spices, sauces, exotic fruits, rare wines consumed without moderation.I get drunk was a sign of wealth, the poor cannot afford wine or risk missing a day of work due to the day after cooked.

50 years AV.J.-VS.Cleopatra, queen of luxury!

La fabuleuse histoire du luxe

Famous for her passion for perfumes, she who spoke several languages had made heady scents a real language. «Une façon de s’exprimer avant qu’on osât lui adresser la parole»», disent les historiens.

4766

Merovingians were real goldsmiths.The Gallo-Roman Mabuinis thus achieved very worked objects for the time, like the sheath of the sword of King Childéric, which can be seen on his tomb in Tournai.

800Charlemagne or useful luxury

Man of letters, Charlemagne did not like the ostentatious luxury, which he chased from his courtyard.On the other hand, he made cooking an art, not looking at expense, both for dishes and for dishes and decor.

1229 Pais clothes set by law!

Louis VIII was against the democratization of luxury: wearing rich clothes had to remain the privilege of nobles.He therefore instituted sumptuous laws to regulate the wearing of jewelry and precious clothes.

13th century the beginnings of Italian luxury

From Florence to Milan, the big wealthy families compete in creativity to build the most sumptuous palaces.A battle that still continues today, between the Milanese Prada and the Florentin Gucci.

18th century the beginnings of French luxury

Under the influence of Louis XIII, his wife Anne of Austria and Richelieu, luxury is back at the Court of France.The movement will accelerate with Louis XIV.Marquetry becomes an art, just like goldsmithery or watchmaking.But, following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, many craftsmen flee France, bearing a serious blow to the development of French luxury.

"The first luxury brands appeared in France from the 18th century"»

18th century Paris, world capital of fashion

«Entre la fin du XVII esiècle et le début du XVIII e , les dépenses vestimentaires doublent, aussi bien pour la noblesse que pour les classes populaires»», raconte l’historienJean Castarède.But the time is also to the criticism of luxury, unequal in essence.The splendor of the time undoubtedly made, in part, the bed of the revolution.

1764creation of Baccarat

In 1764, Louis XV authorized the installation of a glassware in Baccarat, in the Vosges.Thirty years later, the factory was one of the most famous in Europe.At the same time, the art of porcelain developed in France, the creations of the Sèvres factory decorating all the royal tables of the continent.

1776Les premières «marques»» de champagne

In Reims, Mr. Dubois creates his cellar.He will resell it a few years later to Nicolas Schreider, who led her in 1933 to his nephew, a certain Louis Roederer.Its cellar, still independent, now sells 3 million bottles per year.

1780 NAP of Chaumet

Founded by Marie-Etienne Nitot, Chaumet became, in 1802, Napoleon's official jeweler... et deJoséphine.We owe him in particular the crown of the coronation and the consular sword, set with the most beautiful diamond of the crown of France, the regent (140 carats) today exposed to the Louvre.

19th century appearance of haute couture

Avec le développement du prêt-à-porter, la «couture-création»» devient un luxe, réservé aux classes les plus aisées.The Englishman Charles-Frédérick Worth, tailor of the Empress Eugenie, is the first to lay the foundations of haute couture: association of a creator and a brand, presentation each year new features on living models (then calledSOSIES) and advertising.

1812BREGUET creates the first bracelet watch

Breguet 2639 required two and a half years of work.

1837 House Foundation Hermès

Thierry Hermès, craftsman Harnacheur, opens his workshop.In 1880, his son moved to rue Saint-Honoré.Not because the neighborhood is chic, but because it is close to the stables of the Champs-Elysées.

1854 Louis Vuitton settles on his own...

Coming from a line of carpenters, Louis Vuitton made himself known by designing trunks intended for the transport of dresses and jewelry.Having become awarded Malletier of Empress Eugenie, in 1854, he settled on his own, near Vendôme Place.In 1896, his son, Georges Vuitton, who took over the house, drawn the famous monogram, in tribute to his father and to fight against counterfeiting.

1856burberry, English chic

Simple clothier, Thomas Burberry opens, at the age of 21, his first shop.In 1880, he designed Gabardine, a cotton fabric made waterproof thanks to a tight weaving and, in 1912, he drawn his trench coat ("The coat of trenches), still worn around the world.

1889Jeanne Lanvin launches her brand

Née en 1867 en Bretagne,Jeanne Lanvin se fait remarquer par ses vêtements de bal.In 1885, she opened her own workshop, in an attic.It is the oldest fashion house still active in Paris.

1892Partion of "Vogue"»

The magazine, first weekly, was born in New York.In 1905, when he was taken over by Condé Montrose Nast, a lawyer, the title is already very influential in the fashion world.In France, its first edition appeared in 1920.

1895 BERLUTI, the most luxurious shoe farm on the planet

That year, Alessandro Berluti moved to Paris and put on the wealthiest Parisians, fans of his fine leathers.His sons, then grandsons and girls will take over the workshop, fit Kennedy, Onassis or Warhol before selling the house in LVMH in 1993.

1909 The beginnings of Gabrielle Chanel

This incredible rage orphan started by making hats.Before embarking on the seam.She quickly imposes her style, refined, practical and chic.His collar -free tailor, created in 1925, and his little black dress, drawn in 1926, remain classics.

1847 PROCEMENT MARCH OF CHRISTIAN DIOR

Called Corolle, the first Dior collection is immediately a success.Creator, but also a visionary entrepreneur, Christian Dior simultaneously launches his perfume, Miss Dior and a line of accessories, including the shoes created by Roger Vivier.In 1955, the Dior house was the most important fashion house in Paris.Christian Dior suddenly disappeared in 1957, and it was Yves Saint Laurent who succeeded him, before leaving for his own brand four years later.Bernard Arnault bought the house in 1984.

"History is a good marketing argument"»

Caroline Cox, historienne de la mode, auteur de «Le Luxe en héritage»» (Edition Dunod)

"Luxury houses very often refer to their past because, in times of recession, it reassures to deal with a house established for a long time.People also like to think that the past was better, even if it is often of the order of fantasy.Finally, we say that buying a luxury object can even be a good investment because it will last longer than a current product and will be transmitted from one generation to another.But, rather than talking about history, brands often prefer to speak of heritage.The story indeed evokes something that is finished, which has disappeared, while the heritage induces an idea of transmission and shows that the brand will last.Of course, the past is also a marketing argument used by some to sell standardized, even industrialized products, by playing on the concept of crafts linked to the luxury of yesteryear.Today, world brands like Burberry or Chanel create Massmarket products that are impossible for them to produce by hand.»»»

Lomig Guillo