With the Jacquemus and Dior fashion shows, Paris celebrates its eclecticism

It all started from a photograph of Niki de Saint Phalle, in Dior tailor by Marc Bohan, on a dromedary in Morocco, in 1968, discovered during the Christian Dior exhibition, Couturier du Rêve, at the Musée des Arts Déco."I had also seen a retrospective dedicated to him in Rome a few years ago.I was passionate about her work, for her life, before discovering that she had a privileged relationship with Bohan, confided Maria Grazia Chiuri, the day before her Dior parade, sitting in front of an inspiration table covered with saint phalle clichésIn his workshop or in full performance (1961-1963).She started as a model, then turned out to be an artist.You know her tragic story (she revealed late that she was raped by her father at the age of 11, editor's note), she used art as a factor of resilience.Through her work, she expressed her child's share but, as a woman, she was strong and rather androgynous.At the same time, this collection also refers to an article by Linda Nochlin dating from 1971 Why Havi There not Great Women Artists?(Why is there not a big woman artist?).The question - ironic since the thesis of the American researcher maintains that the history of art has been written by men - is part of a t -shirt carried with jeans at the opening of the parade.An MGC gimmick that was a date with the same slogan garment "we all should be a feminist" in its first collection, spring-summer 2017."Women have to fight their own feeling of inferiority, imposture.And it's true everywhere in the world.Clothes must help them feel good, safer from them.»»

Multiple femininity in Dior

The question remains to know how to translate this benevolence into a cloakroom intended for wealthy customers around the world, who love everything that shines, who also like logos and jeans ... This complexity had found its unit in the last collection by aParty almost entirely black and navy blue, focused on tailoring, very (too?) Calibbe.This time, it's the opposite.We find these same featies with plumetis revealing large logos panties (enhanced with colored stripes), strange in a fashion house that has not developed underwear in the past, like a Calvin Klein or a Armani.From one passage to the other, the stylist tells, therefore, the story of Niki de Saint Phalle, in particular in the 1960s, with her ARTY attitude, very Diana Rigg in her trapeze dresses, her sailors and her combinations ofgas station attendant.Then, it derives towards a seventies influence, with a jacket in Mongolia lamb, of skirt in dreadlocks of wool, of flat bags with fringes and, less folk, more disco, of sweater dress in black glitter and flame.Before declining the Damieurs of Formula 1 flags on pilot combish.Confusing.Maria Grazia Chiuri seems to defend a multiple femininity, without completely letting go.

The Dior house having established a partnership with the Foundation in charge of the Legs of Niki de Saint Phalle, it is also his work that ready-to-wear workshops have taken up in embroidery or prints: a reproduction of positive ceramics and negativeDragon (1988) on high-waisted leather shorts, drawing traces, cover of the first volume of its autobiography (1999) on a sequined T-shirt dress, you are my dragon (1968) adorning a leather hobo… a futureCollector like these guitar shoulder shoulder microsacs and these large formats, kind of shopping bags with commissions, shaped in the vintage monogrammed jacquard canvas awarded for two seasons by the Romaine."My training is the source of accessories designer.I do not know why there are a kind of prejudice from this category, because it would be “commercial”.I think that a bag or a shoe is a part of design that concentrates as much creativity as a dress. Ce serait comme de dire qu’une chaise est moins créative qu’un immeuble»», explique à juste titre Maria Grazia Chiuri.

All the passages of the Dior ready-to-wear and summer 2018 parade parade

On video, the best moments of the Dior ready-to-wear-summer 2018 parade parade

A Jacquemus collection inspired by Matisse

From one artist to another ... In 1973, Niki de Saint Phalle paid tribute to Picasso, just disappeared, through the canvas Salut Pablo.At the same time, it was decided that the work of Spanish genius would have gathered in the Hotel Salé, in the heart of the Marais district.It is there that Simon Porte, the creator of Jacquemus, inaugurated the Fashion Week of Paris on Monday evening, thus grilling the priority to Dior, which the young French, a bit insolent, did not have to hate."At the start, I was intimidated by this place because Picasso is my favorite artist, but I could not resist the beauty of architecture, forged irons of the staircase of honor," he saysA few minutes after the show, in the paved courtyard of the museum.But my inspiration in this collection would be rather Matisse, its Corsican landscapes, its colors.»» Intitulée La Bomba, cette saison baignée de lumière évoque le souvenir de sa mère (disparue alors qu’il était petit) les soirs d’été, quand il l’accompagnait, elle si belle faisant le tour des boutiques de céramique sur un port en Corse."I was also inspired by Danyrose (the model on which he designed the collection, editor's note) which is Martinica, by his way of being and walking.»» Cette sensation propre à l’été, hédoniste, du corps sain, libre et hâlé, il la traduit en des robes drapées qui impriment la rétine.First by the quality of execution (rare in such a young house), but also by the just dosage between creativity and the reality of an outfit in which a woman can project herself.Not everyone will wear their frozen dresses discovering the thigh high, holding by the mind and a thin strap on the shoulders, falling into the hollow of the kidneys - there is Mireille Darc at the Audiard in these half -naked girls butnever vulgar.In the audience, many have already mentally reserved his dresses tied at the waist, his sexy corsair tailors, his small ribbed mesh sweaters (including a model with naive pastiche of a famous monogram) which sign a dressing roomUltra-effective, nourished by a chic very Maeght foundation and both contemporary.We have often cited about the thirties the names of Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier.What he shares with his elders is this ability to make Franco-French references almost old-fashioned a universal point in real clothing.

The whole parade Jacquemus spring-summer 2018

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